Monday, May 3, 2010

Letter to Mr. Bittman

Mark Bittman writes a food column for the New York Times called “The Minimalist.”

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May 3, 2010

Dear Mr. Bittman,

I’m writing to you on behalf of my brother Scott, a Peace Corps volunteer in Northern Mozambique in desperate need of some culinary foreign aid.

I just returned home from visiting him in Africa, where he gave me a letter addressed to you. He wanted to send it to you himself, but the Mozambican postal service is not exactly what you would call reliable.

Along with the enclosed letter, he asked me to send you a sample of Mozambican dried fish, which we purchased for you at the market in Ribáuè, the village where he lives. Unfortunately, I’m sorry to say that I was not successful in my attempt to smuggle the rather pungent parcel past customs officials on my way back to the United States. Who knew that police dogs were also trained to sniff out African delicacies?

I have, however, included a few photos to give you a sense of what we’re dealing with.

If you would like to contact my brother directly, here is his address in Mozambique:

Scott Brennen / P.O. Box 002 / Escola Secondária de Ribáuè / Ribáuè, Nampula Moçambique

He does, occasionally, have internet access [when he travels]. On those occasions he can be reached at: scottbrennen@gmail.com

Alternatively, I would be happy to facilitate any further communication and can be reached at the following:

Andrea Brennen / 21 Avon St. #1 / Somerville, MA 02143 / abrennen@gmail.com

Thank you in advance for your help. He, I, and our mother are all grateful. We worry about him over there, y’know?

Yours,

Andrea Brennen

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Dear Mr. Bittman;

Can I call you Mark? Good. Mark, I need your help.

You see Mark, I live in the Bush and there isn’t much to eat. I am a Peace Corps Volunteer in rural in-land Mozambique: I live in a hut, I cook with charcoal, I lose sleep to mosquitoes, and one time a crocodile ate my dog. I’ll eat just about anything, but there’s just not much of anything to eat. Mostly I eat beans: beans and corn, beans and rice, beans and cassava, beans and sorghum, beans and millet; when I want something special: beans and bread. Sometimes I eat greens, usually with beans. And frankly, Mark, after nineteen months it’s getting a little old.

And here is where you come in – you see, there is, in fact, another protein source. Mark, have you ever eaten Mozambican dried fish? Let me try to describe the experience.

Let’s start with bones. Lots of ‘em. Little bones, sharp bones, bones you can chew, bones you can’t. Bones that scratch as they go down; bones that scratch as they come back up. Next, add the smell of nearly rotten fish. No, not fully rotten, but you know everything one could hate about fish? Imagine that in concentrate. It smells like a practical joke, or like an afternoon fishing trip gone bad. It smells like forgetting your pet guinea pig in the basement for a month. Defeat, humiliation; yes, it even smells like Death. Now, salt. So much it makes you cry. Dirty, crunchy sea salt: big grains, little grains. It finds holes, it gets in deep. You taste it as you sleep.

So there it is, the three-part essence of Mozambican dried fish: salty, fishy bones. And here’s where I need your expertise: help me find a way to make this local product palatable. I could appeal to your sense of pity for a young American volunteering out in the Bush, but instead I appeal to your sense of exploration, of adventure. Let’s call it a challenge, perhaps your greatest ever: craft a good simple recipe for dried fish using nothing but a charcoal stove and locally grown foods. That means no electricity, no refrigerator, and no fancy kitchen equipment. I will include a list of what other ingredients are generally available here. Don’t worry, it will be short. Here in Mozambique your minimalist perspective is necessary not voluntary. Maybe this is what you’ve been looking for, what you’ve been waiting for. Yes, this could be your greatest challenge. Here, Mark, there is little, and here the need is great.

Thank you and good luck.

Yours,

Scott Brennen

P.S. In case you want to try some, here’s some dried fish.


Generally Available Ingredients:

Dried fish; infinite variety

Piri-piri chili

Tomatoes

Onions

Green petters

Oil

Salt

Chicken stock

Peanuts

Coconut

Sugar, sugar cane

Grans: wheat, rice, corn, millet, sorghum, cassava

Sweet and regular potatoes

Greens: collard, pumpkin, sweet potato, cassava, mustard, cauliflower

Bananas

Pasta

White bread

Assorted beans

Eggs

Rats, grasshoppers, flying termites – yes, people eat these

Dried mangoes

Sometimes Available:

Instant coffee

Tea

Powdered milk / Sweetened condensed milk

Pumpkin

Okra

Lettuce

Carrots

Papaya

Oranges

I have these spices from home:

Cumin

Curry

Garam masala

Rosemary

Basil

Oregano

Caraway

Thyme

Marjoram

Cinnamon

Ginger

Soy sauce

Chili powder

Food

Much of our time is spent on food…planning meals, walking to town to go to the market, cooking, eating…thinking about the food we have, day dreaming about the food we don’t.

Supplies in the market are limited and getting enough protein is a constant struggle. Our comparative wealth allows us the luxury of buying eggs…and the occasional chicken…but most people in Ribáuè subsist, for the most part, on mandioca [also called cassava or manioc, depending where you are]. Originally native to Brazil, this plant grows just about anywhere. Its greens are pretty tasty, not bitter at all, and the roots are vaguely potato-ish, but with a slightly chewier, denser consistency. Mandioca root can be dried, ground, and boiled to make a vaguely-polenta-like carb dish called caracata. Sometimes you see people eating the roots raw, which I didn’t feel the need to sample given that uncooked mandioca roots contain arsenic. Apparently, the common process is to nibble at the root in search of the less bitter parts which are, presumably, less toxic. No thanks.

Recipe for Matapa Zambeziano

[i.e. Mandioca greens with coconut milk]

½ kilo cassava leaves

2 L boiling water

½ kilo green papaya

milk of 1 coconut

2 onions

3 tomatoes

peanuts, crushed [“pilared”]

Boil all ingredients except coconut milk over fire. When water is almost boiled off, add coconut milk. Let simmer one hour.

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Other staple dishes include beans and caracata:


Boiled Mandioca root:

Despite the limited range of ingredients, Scotty and I managed to make some pretty excellent meals. We figured out a way to make bruschetta, a curried egg frittata, and even a chocolate cake with a ridiculously good frosting made from fresh grated coconut and sweetened condensed milk.


Sunday, May 2, 2010

The Agrarian School

Day 21

I know...I know...such stereotypical pictures of "Africa". It's like one of those things you have to bring home...a photo of you with a mob of African children.

I swear, we ended up with these by accident.

Scotty, Greg, Jacinto, Banesh and I had planned to hike to the top of one of the nearby mountains, but I wussed out on account of the fact that we had to wade through a fresh water river. Well, also because it would have been like a 15 hour hike, which I wasn't really feeling up to, given the tropical temps.

We ended up walking to the nearby Agrarian school instead, where there were -- you guessed it -- mobs of African children. At first they were terrified of us, which was kindof hilarious. Eventually they warmed up, though, and then started begging to have their photos taken.

Here's Greg terrorizing them:

Emacua Lesson

Day 21

Mozambique’s official tongue is Portuguese – the language of school, official business, and colonial history. But around Ribaue, everyone’s first language is Emacua.

This lesson is brought to you courtesy of Banesh, one of Scotty’s students. He accompanies Scotty, Greg, Jacinto, and I on our walk to the agrarian school.

i•ha•li – how are you?

sa•lam•a – good

va•ca•ni va•ca•ni – been better [literally, “little by little”]

ka•hi i•ha•li – and you?

ku•shu•ku•ru – thank you

ku•shu•ku•re•la – thank you very much

mun•ro•wa va•yee – where are you going?

kin ro•wa o•tu•mah e•yol•ya – I am going to buy food

in see•na nan•yo ta•ni – what is your name?

mu•kun•ya – white person [this is what people shout at Scotty and I]

no•ri•pe – black African [this is what Scotty shouts back]

ki•no ve•ka… – I am asking for…

nhu o•ve•ka van•che•ne – you ask too much

mu•no ki wo•kayou’re a liar

em•pa•ka me•la – see you tomorrow

em•pa•ka i•wor•a i•kee•na – see you another time

em•pa•ka mo•ro•tu – see you after tomorrow

I start saying ihali to everyone. Most people seem thoroughly delighted at the thought of a makunha speaking emacua. The kids who were afraid of me now giggle.

The purchase and execution of Sir Thurber Montgomery

Day 20

Yes. We named our dinner.


Here is the whole story...in pictures:

In and around Ribáuè

Day 19
The Market:

The Edge of town:

The School:

Public phone booth:
The 'burbs' [Saua-saua]:

The mato [bush]:


The road to town