Tuesday, July 14, 2009
The Red
On June 27th, Matt and I left for a week long climbing trip in the South. First stop: Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Here is a picture of us brushing our teeth in front of Miguel's. For those of you who don't know, Miguel's is not just a place to camp...it's a bit of an institution amongst climbers: pizza place, gear shop, pre- /post-climbing training ground, and all-around hangout...plus for $2/night, you can camp in the goat field around back. (See photo below.) Note about the Red, and specifically Miguel's: Matt and I were the fattest, least in-shape people there...which, should give you a sense of the ridiculous amount of training that goes on there.
Day 1: Roadside Crag
(Some might say the Parking Lot Wall of the Red)
Trouble Clef [5.9]
Kampsight [5.9]
Pulling Pockets [.10d] -- (I thought this route was really fun)
Crazyfingers [.10c]
Ro Shampo [.12a] -- (which I somehow ended up climbing 3 times...none of them clean, but maybe next time...)
Day 2: Military Wall
Sunshine [5.9]
In the Light [.10c]
Fuzzy Undercling [.11b]
Tissue Tiger [.12b - TR]
Left Flank
To Defy the Laws of Tradition [.10a]
Matt also sent Wild, Yet Tasty [.12a]
Day 3: The Zoo
(We tried to go to the Dark Side but failed...twice. Long story.)
Chimp [.10b]
Jailbird [.10d]
Armadillo [.10d]
Put Me in the Zoo [5.9]
Hippocrite [.12a]
(I was quite proud of myself for making it up this one...given that it has an enormous dyno in the middle.)
Here's Matt looking up at the steep-ness that is THE RED:
And here's an example of the crazy pocketed faces for which the Red is famous:
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Ahhh, the Red. Where I learned how to clip bolts. Defy the Laws was one of the first climbs I ever did. Fuzzy was maybe my second 11, and was my hardest flash for years.
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